Trust In Strangers
The front desk offered to make a recommendation and call us a cab - the shuttle driver then offered to take us to a nearby restaurant. We had no idea where we were going or what we would find - we just got on board and were left outside La Viscontina. If we were able to come back within the hour the shuttle would come back for us. Knowing the little bit I knew about the Italian way of eating (enjoying and savoring one's food and company), I doubted we would make it back in time.
We went in and were seated on one side of the restaurant. and waited awhile for a menu. An older gentleman came up to us and asked us what we would like - when it became apparent we were from out of town - and having left the hotel suddenly and without our phrasebook!! - we were able to say yes to the Italian salami plate and a first course of pasta (something without fish).
We were served light red wine (Fratelli Biletta Moncucchetto, from Grignolino D'Asti, a nice 2004 Vendemmia), champagne (called spumanti here) and mineral water - we had the most magnificent procession of glassware on our table. It was the first red wine I've liked in years, and I started feeling a bit more relaxed. The salami's also were amazing.
The pasta arrived - fantastic pillowy pasta beauties filled with molten parmigiano and basil, with a cream sauce.
We were in heaven.
My nose started going numb and I cut back on my wine intake. We finished off with Italiano caffe, or espresso. It actually went really well with the red wine! We skipped the segundo (2nds) course and dessert.
Two hours passed by and I started flagging, ready to fall asleep on the table. When we asked for them to call us a cab, our server offered to bring us back to our hotel. Turns out he was the owner of the restaurant. He spoke very little English yet we had managed to communicate
"fantastico" and "grazzii!" all evening. Our bill was reasonable for having drunk almost a whole bottle of wine and enjoyed two courses of amazing food.
What we really appreciated about this gentleman was the cats he fed outside of the restaurant, in the courtyard. Several times over the course of the evening trays and plates went out to the courtyard and about 6 different cats had their fill, and played in the moonlight.
I can't believe I could stay awake to type this, but immediate impressions are more accurate than remembered ones. I felt it was important to get this down.


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